23 March 2014

I make a muslin for everything.  As much as I try to talk myself out of doing it, I know it's a necessary sewing evil.  Before I cut out the pattern pieces, I compared them to the pieces from Indygo Junction 740 and Lady Grey.  They were so off (as in small, way small) that I almost ditched the pattern.  Why re-invent the wheel when I have two patterns that fit well already?


Not to be outdone, I forged on anyway.  I made a 1" FBA, removed 3/4" from the center back and side back seams, and added the length back to to the hem. 

Then came the muslin.

The coat is big in the hips and waist, but that's an easy fix.  I sewed 1/2" seam allowances along the princess seams, but could probably go back to 5/8".  I'm going to attach the collar next.  If I like it, I'm ready to cut out the shell fabric.  

I also shortened the sleeves two inches.  Do people really have arms this long or am I just freakishly short?

Finally, I decided to not use the red stretch cotton sateen.  It's a rather thick fabric and I think that could create a lot of bulk when it's time to sew the collar, band, and all interfaced pieces.  Instead I will use a light-weight cotton twill that I acquired in my recent wagon-falling incident.

I was going to sew view C with the length of D, but I will make the shorter length instead.   I'll sew the longer version for fall.  Incidentally, I think I only have enough fabric for the shorter version.  My fabric shrunk a nine inches (O_o) after washing and drying.  I'm going to press the fabric today and lay out the pattern pieces.  Hopefully I can get everything to fit!



  1. Looks great! I've been wanting a trench. I'm a little late in finding this blog - but I'm definitely following to get all the tips and info I can :)

    1. Thank you! I hope what we share will help when you're ready to make your trench.

  2. Thanks for sharing your pattern prep pre-muslin. Your muslin looks good. Does it have enough ease to wear a sweater under it?

    1. Thanks BeccaA. The body of the muslin has enough ease for spring-summer type clothing. The sleeves are a smidge tight, but not uncomfortable. I was going to do a full bicep adjustment, but I think taking a smaller seam allowance in the bicep area will work.

  3. Hello Mrs. Smith,

    I did not sew along with this project (thank goodness because then I might not have made . . . .THIS) https://sewlyricallyvintage.wordpress.com/2015/01/13/robson-coat-sew-a-long/. Sew glad I "met" you via following my blog.

    Now, I'm off to check out yours.

    From one Mrs. Smith to another . . . .